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Almost any vegetable that will grow in a typical backyard garden will also do well as a container-grown plant. Vegetables which are ideally suited for growing in containers include tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, green onions, beans, lettuce, squash, radishes and parsley. Pole beans and cucumbers also do well in this type of garden, but they do require considerably more space because of their vining growth habit.
Variety selection is of extreme importance. Most varieties that will do well when planted in a yard garden will also do well in containers. Some varieties of selected vegetables which are ideally suited for these mini-gardens are shown below.
Varieties for container-grown vegetables
Tomatoes: Patio, Pixie, Tiny Tim, Saladette, Toy Boy, Spring Giant, Tumbling Tom, Small Fry Peppers: Yolo Wonder, Keystone Resistant Giant, Canape, (Hot) Red Cherry, Jalapeno Eggplant: Florida Market, Black Beauty, Long Tom Squash: Dixie, Gold Neck, Early Prolific Straightneck, (Green) Zucco, Diplomat, Senator Leaf Lettuce: Buttercrunch, Salad Bowl, Romaine, Dark Green Boston, Ruby, Bibb Green Onions: Beltsville Bunching, Crysal Wax, Evergreen Bunching Green Beans: Topcrop, Greencrop, Contender, (Pole) Blue Lake, Kentucky Wonder Radishes: Cherry Belle, Scarlet Globe, (White) Icicle Parsley: Evergreen, Moss Curled Cucumbers: Burpless, Liberty, Early Pik, Crispy, Salty
Containers
Almost any type of container can be used for growing vegetable plants. For example, try using bushel baskets, drums, gallon cans, tubs or wooden boxes. The size of the container will vary according to the crop selection and space available. Pots from 6 to 10 inches in size are satisfactory for green onion, parsley and herbs. For most vegetable crops such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, you will find 5-gallon containers are the most suitable size. They are fairly easy to handle and provide adequate space for root growth.
Growing Media
Synthetic "soils" are best suited for vegetable container gardening. These mixes may be composed of sawdust, wood chips, peat moss, perlite, vermiculite or almost any other type of media. Many synthetic "soils" are available from garden centers,
Seeding and Transplanting
Best suited for container culture are vegetables which may be easily transplanted. Transplants may be purchased from local nurseries or can be grown at home. Seeds can also be germinated in a baking pan, plastic tray, pot or even a cardboard milk carton. Fill the container with a good media such as the one previously described, and cover most vegetable seed to a depth of 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch to insure good germination. Another method would be to use peat pellets or peat pots which are available from local nursery supply centers.
The seed should be started in a warm area that receives sufficient sunlight about 4 to 8 weeks prior to the anticipated transplanting date into the final container. Most vegetables should be transplanted into containers when they develop their first two to three true leaves. Transplanting should be done carefully to avoid injury to the young root system.
Fertilization
The easiest way to add fertilizer to plants growing in containers is by preparing a nutrient solution and pouring it over the soil mix. There are many good commercial fertilizer mixes available to make nutrient solutions. If one is utilized, follow the directions on the label. An adequate nutrient solution can be made by dissolving 2 cups of a complete fertilizer such as 10-20-10, 12-24-12 or 8-16-8 in 1 gallon of warm tap water. This solution will be a base solution. From this can be made a growing nutrient which will actually be poured around the plants. To make the growing solution, mix 2 tablespoons of the base solution in 1 gallon of water.
If you use transplants, begin watering with the nutrient solution the day you set them out. If you start with seed, apply only tap water to keep the soil mix moist enough until the seeds germinate and the plants emerge. Then begin using the nutrient solution.
The plants should be watered with the nutrient solution about once a day. While the frequency of watering will vary from one crop to the next, usually once per day is adequate. Should the vegetable make a lot of foliage growth, twice a day may be necessary. Less water will be needed during periods of slow growth.
At least once a week, it is advisable to leach all the unused fertilizer out of the soil mix by watering with tap water. Add sufficient water to the container to cause free drainage from the bottom. This practice will prevent any buildup of injurious materials in the soil mix.
Occasionally, it is a good idea to water with a nutrient solution containing minor elements. Use a water-soluble fertilizer containing iron, zinc, boron and manganese, and follow label directions.
Watering
Proper watering is essential for a successful container garden. Generally one watering per day is adequate. Remember that each watering should be done with the nutrient solution except for the weekly leaching with tap water.
Light
Nearly all vegetable plants will grow better in full sunlight than in shade. However, leafy crops such as lettuce, cabbage, greens, spinach and parsley can tolerate more shade than root crops such as radishes, beets, turnips and onions. The root vegetables can stand more shade than those which bear fruit, such as cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes and eggplant. One advantage to container gardening is mobility. Container gardening makes it possible to position the vegetables in areas where they can receive the best possible growing conditions.
Harvesting
For the greatest amount of enjoyment from a container garden, harvest the vegetables at their peak of maturity when a vegetable's full flavor has developed. This will yield maximum pleasure from the excellent taste of vine-ripened tomatoes, tender green beans and crisp flavorful lettuce.
*All vegetables grow best in full sunlight, but those indicated will also do well in partial shade.
Crop Number of days for germination Number of weeks to optimum
age for transplantingGeneral size of container Amount of light* required Number of days from seeding to harvest Beans 5-8 - Medium Sun 45-65 Cucumbers 5-8 3-4 Large Sun 50-70 Eggplant 8-12 6-8 Large Sun 90-120 Lettuce, leaf 6-8 3-4 Medium Partial shade 45-60 Onions 6-8 6-8 Small Partial shade 80-100 Parsley 10-12 - Small Partial shade 70-90 Pepper 10-14 6-8 Large Sun 90-120 Radish 4-6 - Small Partial shade 20-60 Squash 5-7 3-4 Large Sun 50-70 Tomato 7-10 5-6 Large Sun 90-130
Common problems with container gardening
Symptoms Cause Corrective measures Plants tall, spindly and unproductive Insufficient light Move container to area receiving more light Excessive nitrogen Reduce feeding intervals Plants yellowing from bottom, lack vigor, poor color Excessive water Reduce watering intervals; Check for good drainage Low fertility Increase fertility level of base solution Plants wilt although sufficient water present Poor drainage and aeration Use mix containing higher percent organic matter; increase number of holes for drainage Marginal burning or firing of the leaves High salts Leach container with tap water at regular intervals Plants stunted in growth; sickly, purplish color Low temperature Relocate container to warmer area Low phosphate Increase phosphate level in base solution Holes in leaves, leaves distorted in shape Insects Use EPA-recommended insecticide Plant leaves with spots; dead dried areas, or powdery or rusty areas Plant diseases Remove diseased areas where observed and use EPA-recommended fungicide
BUTTERFLY GARDENING IN CONTAINERS
A group of containers massed in a bright, sunny area can be very beautiful and also attract butterflies. Petunias, lobelia, and sweet alyssum have a wonderful s cent as well as color. Other nectar flowers to consider are ageratum, cosmos, daylily, and rudbeckia daisies. Shrubs such as butterfly bush and hibiscus also grow well in containers, and vines such as wisteria, trumpet vine, or passion vine make a beautiful backdrop. The herbs fennel, dill and parsley will attract butterflies for feeding and serve as host plants for laying eggs. In shadier areas, on trellis ends, or in gazebos, consider using hanging baskets of impatiens.
An alternative food source for butterflies is a homemade feeder filled with a solution of 4 parts water to 1 part granulated sugar. Boil the solution for several minutes until sugar is dissolved, and then let cool. Serve the solution in a shallow container with an absorbent material such as paper towels saturated with the sugar solution.
Bright yellow and orange kitchen scouring pads may be placed in the solution to attract butterflies and give them a resting place while they drink. Place the feeder among your nectar flowers on a post that's 4-6 inches higher than the tallest blooms. Extra solution can be stored in your refrigerator for up to a week.
Butterfly gardening can become more than just watching your garden visitors. You may find yourself keeping a journal of the different species that visit and the various plants they prefer. Your journal can lead to discoveries and the planting of new varieties to attract more of your favorites!
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